the construction of a bra

The four elements of a basic bra include a bra band, cups, straps, and a closure (see Anatomy of a bra). Variations in these key elements determine the bra style. A full-band style, for example, offers the most support; it has a continuous band that extends around the body, with the cups set into it (see Styling options). A partial-band style has a band attached at the sides of the cups, with a center-front piece or hook separating them. The bra band may be a single layer or lined.

Cups can be made of one, two, or three lined or unlined sections, with two being the most common. Cups may or may not include underwires for shaping. Lace cups are often lined with sheer tricot to add stability and reduce scratchiness. You can even add padding to the cups to make a push-up bra like the orange lace one in the photo above.

Straps can be made of strap elastic (less stretchy than regular elastic), nonstretchy strapping, or self-fabric, with or without an adjuster (the most common is a ring-and-slide adjustment). Nonstretchy straps usually have some elastic at the back for ease of movement.

Bras close in either the front or back with hooks, and back closures usually have two or three size adjustments. Many sports bras pull on, with no closures at all.

Each of the bra patterns available from Kwik-Sew, Sew Lovely, and Élan Patterns, made for sizes ranging from 32A to 48FF (see Bra-making sources by mail), will guide you through the construction for that style. To determine what size to start with, see the box below. The pattern will list the fabric options, findings, and notions you'll need, like the plush elastic (cushiony on one side), strap elastic, back hooks, and underwires and their channeling. Or, to make gathering the parts easier, you can buy a kit with all the fabric and findings you'll need; some kits have everything dyed to match.


Taking exact measurements is the first step in making a bra that fits. You'll need to calculate your bra-band size and your cup size by measuring around the rib cage and full bust, wearing your best-fitting bra. (Large-busted women especially need support for accurate measurements.)

Using a full-length mirror, measure around the rib cage, making sure the tape is level around the body and pulling it snug. To this measurement, add either 4 or 5 in. to get an even number. Example: if the snug rib cage is 29 in., add 5 for a total of 34 in. This is the bra-band size.

Next, measure the bust around the fullest part, again keeping the tape level, but this time don't pull it snug. To determine the cup size, subtract the bra-band size from the full-bust measurement. The difference, in inches, tells you the cup size: 1 in. for A, 2 for B, 3 for C, 4 for D, 5 for DD (or E), 6 for DDD (or F), and 7 in. for FF. For example, if your bra band is 36 in. and the full bust 38 in., the cup size is B; you'll make a size 36B. Remember that this is just a starting point. Your actual bra size may be slightly different.